Can You Grow Cucumbers in a Greenhouse? A Complete Guide

Preparing for growing cucumbers in a greenhouse

How to grow cucumbers in a greenhouse? The preparatory work for starting the cultivation of cucumbers in the greenhouse can be broken down into steps or steps that must be taken to effectively cultivate cucumbers with a bountiful harvest all year round.

The first stage is the choice of equipment. What’s the difference between a greenhouse and a greenhouse? It’s important to note that greenhouse buildings can be used to grow cucumbers all year in the Central, South, and Volga regions, even when the weather isn’t good.

There are two types of buildings designed to increase yields and extend the cultivation period:

• A greenhouse is a simpler building, small in size, 1-1. 5 m tall, getting warm from the sun and the heat from the decomposition of manure and humus The greenhouse doesn’t have any doors; to get to the plants, you usually just have to fold the film over from the top or side. It is a good idea to grow cucumbers in a greenhouse because greenhouses are usually used to plant seedlings before moving them to the ground so they get stronger or to germinate seeds. The air in the greenhouse heats up quickly, which is good for plants where they are still growing.
• In agriculture, a greenhouse is a frame structure that protects the soil and keeps heat in. When growing cucumbers in a greenhouse, the ideal height is 2 5 m. The greenhouse can be as tall as it needs to be, as long as it serves its purpose. So, a rather small greenhouse is enough for summer cottages where people want to grow cucumbers for their own use. On the other hand, a larger greenhouse is needed for business sales so that farm equipment can be moved around freely. The frame can be made of metal or wood, depending on what kind of coating it needs to stand up to.

There are three types of greenhouse cover:

• Polycarbonate is strong and light, but it doesn’t keep heat in well enough in the winter. In the winter, greenhouses with this kind of coating need to have extra heating systems, like gas, electric, or wood stoves.
• Because glass is heavy, it needs a metal frame. Glass covered greenhouses can be used all year round.
• The thinnest material is film, and its frame can be made of wire or wood. This kind of greenhouse cover is mostly found in summer cottages where it is used for growing plants and harvesting early.

Taking into account the weather and the needs for the crop (for business or personal use), it is important to choose the right equipment for growing cucumbers.

The second stage is choosing a variety of cucumbers. In indoor conditions, self-pollinated cucumbers and hybrids (parthenocarpic) are suitable for growing. Varietal cucumber can be planted from year to year by harvesting the seeds yourself. Hybrids are seedless species or containing empty seeds without an embryo. The hybrids are marked F1 when purchased. The main advantages of hybrids are:

• high acclimatization;
• high resistance to pests and diseases;
• faster ripening times;
• the yield is 30-40% higher;
• transportability.

Note: There are a lot of different cucumber hybrids with different traits, so read the notes carefully before making your choice.

Popular varieties of cucumbers for the greenhouse

Name	Description
Varietal cucumbers
Pace	1) sweet early maturing; 2) with bundle ovaries; 3) dense, crunchy without bitterness; 4) average weight – 80 g; 5) universal use.
Courage	1) Dutch, introduced in 1980; 2) harvest from a bush – 25 kg; 3) universal use.
Sigurd	1) strong root system; 2) dark green, densely lumpy; 3) average length up to 13 cm; 4) when planting seedlings, the distance between the bushes should be at least 1.5 m.
Serpentine	1) short lashes with small fruits up to 8 cm; 2) fruiting after 36 days; 3) many ovaries (6-8) on the knot; 4) can be used for preservation.
Valaam	1) super-early – ripens in 35 days; 2) cold-resistant; 3) large lumpy with black spines; 4) does not taste bitter.
Hybrids
Courage F1	1) fruiting – after 45 days; 2) dark green with light stripes; 3) planting seedlings with a density of 3 bushes per 1 m²; 4) yield from 1 m² – 7-8 kg; 5) universal use.
Benefit F1	1) fruiting – after 50 days; 2) cucumber length up to 13 cm; 3) dark green with small frequent tubercles; 4) sweet, strong, without bitterness; 5) good for salting.
Alekseich F1	1) early maturing – after 37 days; 2) bundle ovaries; 3) green medium tuberous; 4) average length – up to 8 cm; 5) yield – 12-15 kg / m²; 6) universal use.
Emelya F1	1) early maturity – after 40 days; 2) bundle ovaries; 3) the growth of the lashes is not limited; 4) bright green, large tuberous with white thorns; 5) planting seedlings with a density of 3-4 bushes per 1m²; 6) fresh application and conservation.
Dynamite F1	1) early maturing – after 40 days; 2) tuberous with white spines; 3) average length – 12-15 cm; 4) weight up to 120 g; 5) harvesting – 7 kg / m²; 6) universal use.

Important! When buying seed, you should carefully read the inscription on the sachet with cucumber seeds – you can often see the entry “Parthenocarpic (self-pollinated)” – this is an incorrect labeling. Parthenocarpic (hybrid) cucumber is marked with F1, and varietal has the name (Marta, Bully, etc.).

The third stage is preparing the soil for the greenhouse. Cucumbers are very fond of loose and fertile soil that retains moisture, which is very important for cucumbers who like to “drink”. The best soil composition for a greenhouse is:

• sod land – 3 parts;
• humus or matured compost – 2 parts;
• sand – 1 part.

Before sowing cucumbers and / or planting seedlings, add 1 liter of vermiculite to 10 kg of prepared soil to enhance looseness, ash – 1 glass, superphosphate – 2 tbsp.

It is important to know! When changing the soil in a greenhouse for cucumbers, it is necessary to take the soil on which onions, peppers, carrots, potatoes and cabbage were grown, that is, those crops that do not have the same types of diseases as cucumbers.

The fourth stage is the preparation of seeds for sowing when choosing this method of planting cucumbers or growing seedlings.

When sowing with seeds. It is necessary to prepare the seeds using the following technology – warm up at + 30 ° C, treat with any fungicide, for example, Thiram – put the seeds in a gauze bag and place them in the solution for 15 minutes, then rinse the seeds with water.

Disadvantages of seed planting of cucumbers in a greenhouse:

• longer vegetative period;
• less yield due to longer growing season;
• 30% of seeds may not sprout;
• a high risk of freezing plantings when frost returns;
• needs more care, like constant air flow, shade for seedlings, and keeping an eye on the soil and air temperatures.

To reduce the risks when planting with seeds, you must:

• Use a polycarbonate cover on your greenhouse because it heats up faster and keeps heat in well.
• use additional heating in the greenhouse (except for the sun);
• choose early varieties of cucumbers to shorten the growing season;
• Plant two seeds in the hole; later, cut off the weaker sprout.

Agronomists give the following recommendations for planting cucumbers by seeds:

• Before planting, the temperature should be at least 12–13 ° C, even at night. Once the first leaves appear, it should be at least 15 ° C all the time. At a lower temperature, the seeds will die;.
• Sowing with seeds should be done in the middle lane from April 20 to May 10;
• do not allow planting density – this will reduce yield;
• The beds should be 30 cm high and planted in two rows, 50 cm apart. There should be at least 90 cm of space between each bed.
• Place the seed flat in a well that has been filled with water up to 2 cm deep. Then, fill the hole with earth up to the level of the bed.
• Cover the beds with cut-up plastic bottles, and take them off every day to let them air out.
• keep an eye on the temperatures of the soil and air all the time.

In the future, the plantings are looked after in the same way as when planting seedlings.

Growing seedlings. For sowing, take separate cups for the correct formation of the root system. The seeds must be germinated before planting in the hole, which in turn must be spilled with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Sprinkle the seed with a two-centimeter layer of earth.

Cover the cups with polyethylene for 2-4 days until sprouts appear.

Planting cucumbers is effective for obtaining a high yield if there are three, and preferably 4 leaves on the young.

The fifth stage is planting seedlings. Plant the seedlings in the greenhouse when the soil temperature reaches + 15 ° С. Seedling planting rules:

• The size of the cucumber rhizome should be used to make a depression in the hole with fertilizer.
• deepen the seedlings to the first leaf;
• Watch how far apart the seedlings are—at least 50 cm, and up to 1 m depending on the type. 5 m;.
• compact the soil around the seedlings.

To speed up the production of the first ovaries, special care is required for young cucumber shoots in the greenhouse.

Why You SHOULD Be Growing Cucumbers In A Greenhouse!

FAQ

What is the best way to grow cucumbers in a greenhouse?

Grown vertically in a greenhouse, cucumbers require strings or canes to be tied into as they grow. Growing cucumbers vertically not only saves space but can also improve air flow, which can help keep the plants healthy and make it easier to care for them and pick the fruits.

Can I grow tomatoes and cucumbers in the same greenhouse?

The short answer is YES! Tomatoes and cucumbers can be grown together successfully, and there are actually some benefits to planting them together. Jun 4, 2024.

Why are my cucumbers dying in my greenhouse?

Too much or too little water: Cucumber seedlings need regular moisture, but too much water can kill the roots, and too little water can make them wilt and die. Ensure the soil is well-draining and keep it evenly moist. Poor Soil Quality: Cucumber plants thrive in nutrient-rich, well-draining soil.

Do you need to pollinate cucumbers in a greenhouse?

Greenhouse cucumber plants produce long, smooth fruits, much like the ones you find in the supermarket. These plants don’t need pollinating – in fact, you should remove any male flowers to prevent pollination happening or the fruits will end up bitter.