Tall grass with seeds popping up on top can be an eyesore in lawns and gardens This aggressive grass often spreads rapidly through seeds and underground rhizomes While it provides a nice green color, the tall seed heads protruding above mowed turf are unsightly. So what are some tips for handling tall grasses that produce seeds on top?
Identifying the Culprits
The first step is pinpointing the type of grass. Some common culprits for tall grass with seed heads include bahiagrass, dallisgrass, and crabgrass. Bahiagrass produces distinctive Y-shaped seed heads on tall stems. Dallisgrass looks similar with its long seed heads but they are more spread out. Crabgrass has thinner stems with finger-like seed heads low to the ground. Proper identification will help determine the best control methods.
Cultural Practices for Prevention
The best way to get rid of weedy grasses is to keep your lawn thick and healthy. Tall weeds will have a harder time getting in if you mow, water, and fertilize your turfgrass the right way. Hand pulling may work for small infestations. Organic mulches like pine straw can also suppress growth. However, most cases will require herbicide applications.
Herbicide Options for Control
Glyphosate products can be used for spot spraying but should be applied carefully to avoid harming desirable grasses Sethoxydim products will selectively control grassy weeds in turf and landscape beds without injuring most ornamentals Atrazine can be applied on St. Augustinegrass and centipedegrass lawns. Products with active ingredients like imazaquin, metsulfuron, and sulfentrazone also provide postemergence and residual control. But always check turfgrass tolerance and follow label directions closely.
Timing Applications for Maximum Effectiveness
To maximize effectiveness, herbicides should be applied at the right growth stages and under optimal weather conditions For example, sethoxydim works best before seed heads form. Atrazine is more effective when temperatures reach 65-70°F for several days. Glyphosate requires actively growing weeds not under drought stress Two or more applications are often needed, spaced 3-6 weeks apart.
Controlling Seed Heads in Gardens
If you want to plant a garden, glyphosate or mulch may help get rid of weeds. Products with sethoxydim can be put on top of vegetables after planting to get rid of grassy weeds without hurting the plants. Just avoid getting it on sweet corn. Hand-weeding is another way to get rid of any weeds that get out.
Controlling tall grasses that produce seeds on top takes some work. But following a good maintenance regimen and properly timed herbicide applications can help keep them in check. Always remember to read and follow label directions when using any pesticide product. With persistence, you can gain the upper hand against these troublesome weeds.
Frequently Asked Questions
What kind of grass has seeds on top?
Some grasses, like Annual Bluegrass and Rough Stalk Bluegrass, make seed heads very early in the spring. Other grasses, like annual rye grass, may make seed heads later in the season. The seed heads are on a stalk that grows from the middle of the grass plant and look like little wheat plants.
Should I mow grass seed heads?
The seed heads will still develop despite frequent mowing. However, you should NOT lower the mowing height in an attempt to remove all of them as they are a short-lived aesthetic problem; they do not cause long-term damage to turf plants.
What is the best tall fescue grass seed?
The best tall fescue grass seed will vary, depending on the climate and the environment. Some varieties will grow in deep shade, while others prefer full sun and are more tolerant of drought and heat. In general, tall fescue varieties are best suited to lawns in the nation’s northern half, although there are some exceptions.
Which grass seed is best for your lawn?
The first brand we’re going to take a look at is Scotts Turf Builder Grass Seed. If you live in an area that’s hot and dry, this might be the perfect seed for your lawn. It has excellent drought tolerance which makes it easier than ever to maintain a healthy lawn even if water restrictions are enforced.
How do I choose the best grass seed?
When choosing the grass seed, look for the weed seed percentage and choose the ones with less than 0.5 percent. You can find this info on the package label, along with the grass variety, purity, and germination percentage. Measure your lawn area in square feet, and purchase enough seed to cover that area.
What type of grass should I plant?
These include your local climate, soil conditions, and whether you’re planting in the sun or in the shade. In southern climates, Bermuda grass is a popular choice for its durability. Zoysia grass and centipede grass grow well in the dryer conditions of the southwest, while Bahia grass is better for the humid southeastern US.
Soil preparation: seed and sod These turfgrass seedlings were planted at different angles and will fill in as they grow.
Soil preparation should be the same for seeding or sodding.
- Do a soil test. Follow sampling procedures for representative results.
- Make amendments as prescribed by the soil test.
- Firm the soil slightly with a roller or cultipacker.
- Late summer (mid-August to mid-September) is the best time to plant seeds in Minnesota.
- Spread half as much seed across the area as possible in straight lines. This will help the seed cover the lawn evenly.
- Lightly rake the soil so that about 2010 to 2015% of the seed can show.
- Roll or cultipacker the area to make sure the seeds get good contact with the soil.
- Water until the soil is 4 to 6 inches deep, and then use light irrigation up to three or four times a day to keep the plants moist. Minimize irrigation during rainfall events.
- As the roots grow into the soil after germination, water less often.
A load of sod ready to be planted on a boulevard.
The pros and cons
The most important difference between seeding and sodding is the time necessary for developing a mature or durable turf. Here are some of the advantages and disadvantages of each establishment method.
- More grass species and varieties to choose from
- Less expensive than sodding
- Stronger root system development initially and long term
- No layering of soil types to cause rooting problems
- Initial establishment is takes more time
- Seeding should only be done in late summer or early fall for the best results.
- Moisture is critical for the young seedlings
- It takes almost a whole season for a lawn to grow up and be strong.
- Weed pressure will be greater
- Rapid establishment and relatively weed-free in the beginning
- Good for slopes or areas prone to erosion
- Can be laid virtually any time during the growing season
- “Instant” lawn
- Not as many species to choose from; most of the sod in Minnesota will be Kentucky bluegrass.
- Expensive
- Labor intensive to install
- Potential layering of soil types that causes rooting issues
In Minnesota, Kentucky bluegrass, fine fescues, turf-type tall fescue and some of the perennial ryegrass varieties are recommended. Your local seed distributor, garden center , or county extension educator can help you to determine the best varieties for your lawn.
- For shady locations, look for seed mixtures specifying shade tolerance. There will be fescues and some common Kentucky bluegrasses that can grow in shade in these.
- Mixtures made Kentucky bluegrass better in sunny places that get a lot of use. perennial ryegrasses, or tall fescues are best.
- Fine fescues or turf-type tall fescues mixed together will make a durable lawn that doesn’t need much care.
Most of the sod grown in Minnesota is a mixture of Kentucky bluegrass varieties. Occasionally, some perennial ryegrass, improved varieties of tall fescue or fine fescue are available in the mixture. A retailer or installer should know what varieties are in their sod; if not, they can get this information from the sod grower.