Hey, rose lovers! Today I’m going to tell you everything you need to know about those stalks that are getting really long on your rose bushes. As a passionate gardener who has dealt with these sudden growth spurts many times, I can help you figure out if these shoots are good or bad for your roses.
What’s Up With Those Super-Tall Shoots?
We’ve all been there: you walk into your garden and all of a sudden see these huge stems growing out of your normally well-behaved rose bush. There are two main types of these tall shoots:
- Water Shoots (also called basal shoots)
- Suckers
Both look pretty similar at first glance but trust me knowing the difference is super important for your rose’s health!
Water Shoots: The Good Guys
Water shoots are your rose bush’s way of saying “I’m doing great!” Here’s what you need to know about these helpful growths.
Characteristics of Water Shoots:
- Grow from the bud union (that knobby part where the rose is grafted)
- Match the main plant’s foliage and flowers
- Often thicker than regular canes
- Usually appear in spring or autumn
- Form new main stems for your rose bush
Why Water Shoots Pop Up:
- Natural growth cycle
- Response to good growing conditions
- Plant regeneration
- Seasonal changes
- Sometimes triggered by heavy pruning
Suckers: The Troublemakers
You need to watch out for these guys! Suckers are like that cousin you don’t want at the family reunion; they look like they belong but don’t.
How to Identify Suckers:
- Emerge from below the graft union
- Often start underground
- Usually have different foliage
- May produce different flowers
- Can grow super aggressively
The Big Difference: Location, Location, Location!
Here’s my super simple trick for telling them apart:
| Feature | Water Shoots | Suckers ||--------------|----------------------------|----------------------------|| Origin | At/above graft union | Below graft union || Growth | Controlled | Aggressive || Purpose | Strengthens plant | Steals nutrients || Action | Usually keep | Always remove |What Should You Do With These Shoots?
For Water Shoots:
- Let them grow if your rose needs rejuvenation
- Stake them if they’re getting too tall
- Trim them to match plant height if desired
- Monitor their growth during the season
For Suckers:
- Remove them ASAP!
- Dig down to find the origin point
- Pull or cut them off as close to the root as possible
- Keep checking for new growth
Pro Tips from My Garden to Yours
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Don’t Trust the Leaflet Count: Y’know that old saying about counting leaflets? (7 for water shoots, 5 for suckers) – it’s not always reliable! I’ve seen plenty of exceptions.
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Check the Growth Pattern: Water shoots tend to grow more uniformly, while suckers often have a wild, unruly appearance.
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When in Doubt, Document: Take photos of suspicious growth and track changes. This has saved my roses more than once!
Common Questions I Get About Long Shoots
“Help! My Rose is Growing Super Tall Shoots in Autumn!”
Don’t panic! This is actually pretty normal. Autumn growth spurts happen, especially with water shoots. Just keep an eye on them and provide support if needed.
“Should I Cut Off All Tall Growth?”
Nope! If they’re water shoots, they’re helping your rose bush develop new, strong canes. Only remove them if they’re definitely suckers or if the water shoots are causing structural issues.
“My Rose Keeps Producing Long Shoots – What’s Wrong?”
Could be a few things:
- Not enough sunlight (plant searching for light)
- Over-fertilization
- Recent heavy pruning
- Natural growth cycle
Warning Signs to Watch For
Sometimes those long shoots are trying to tell you something:
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Excessive Water Shoots Could Mean:
- Too much nitrogen
- Insufficient sunlight
- Stress response
- Recovery from damage
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Frequent Suckers Might Indicate:
- Damage to the graft union
- Stress on the rootstock
- Poor planting depth
- Soil disturbance
Final Thoughts and Tips
Looking after roses isn’t always a bed of roses (sorry, couldn’t resist!), but understanding these growth patterns makes it way easier. Here’s what I want you to remember:
- Not all long shoots are bad
- Check the origin point before taking action
- Document unusual growth
- When in doubt, ask for help!
If you’re ever unsure about whether you’re dealing with a water shoot or sucker, snap a pic and send it to your local rose society or garden center. Trust me, we rose enthusiasts love helping each other out!
Remember: A healthy rose bush will naturally produce water shoots as part of its growth cycle. It’s only when you spot those sneaky suckers that you need to take immediate action.
Happy gardening, and may all your shoots be the good kind!
P.S. – If you’ve got any cool stories about dealing with crazy rose growth, drop them in the comments below. I’d love to hear your experiences!
How to prune roses: general tips
When tackling roses bear the following in mind;
- Cuts should be no more than 5 ¼ inches above a bud and should slope away from it so that water doesn’t pool on it. This is true for all cuts, like removing dead wood, deadheading, or yearly pruning.
- Cut to an outward-facing bud to encourage an open-centred shape. If you want roses that grow more upright, cut back some stems to buds that face inward.
- If you can’t see a dormant bud, cut the plant to the right height.
- Cuts must be clean, so keep your secateurs sharp. For larger stems, use loppers or a pruning saw.
- Prune dieback to healthy white pith
- Get rid of stems that are dead, sick, spindly, or crossing.
- Aim for well-spaced stems that allow free air flow
- On roses that are already established, cut out old wood that doesn’t flower well and old stubs that haven’t grown any new shoots.
- Except for climbing and shrub roses, all newly planted roses should be pruned hard to encourage strong shoots.
- Find the roots where the suckers are coming from and pull them away.
These tips should be read in conjunction with the appropriate rose pruning profile.
When to prune roses
Late winter (February or March) is often a good time for pruning roses but see the individual rose profiles above for more specific timing.