Garlic is a wonderful vegetable to grow in your garden. Garlic grown at home tastes much better than garlic bought in stores. You can have a lot of tasty garlic bulbs if you prepare the soil and plant them in the right way. This complete guide will teach you everything you need to know to be ready to plant your garlic beds.
Why Grow Your Own Garlic?
There are many great reasons to grow your own garlic
-
Incredible flavor – Fresh garlic has a complex, robust flavor that is lost when commercially grown. Homegrown garlic tastes amazing.
-
Garlic bulbs that have been properly cured can be kept for 6 to 8 months after they have been picked. This provides garlic year-round.
-
Health benefits – Garlic contains anti-inflammatory and antioxidant compounds that support health.
-
Pest control – The sulfur compounds in garlic naturally deter pests like aphids, mites, and fungus gnats.
-
Satisfaction – Growing your own food is incredibly rewarding.
When to Prepare Garlic Beds
The ideal time to prep your soil for planting garlic is 4-6 weeks before your expected first fall frost. This gives the garlic cloves time to establish roots before winter dormancy.
For most regions, late September through October is the best window for garlic bed preparation. If planting must be delayed, prepare the beds as soon as possible in fall.
Selecting the Right Planting Site
If you want to plant garlic, choose a spot that gets full sun—at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight per day. The morning sun is very important for getting the dew off the leaves and stems.
Garlic thrives in sunny spots, resulting in larger bulbs. Insufficient sunlight can lead to stunted, undersized garlic. South-facing areas near walls or buildings are great because they provide extra warmth.
The Importance of Proper Drainage
Proper drainage is absolutely crucial for growing healthy garlic. Excess moisture and soggy soil cause garlic bulbs to rot.
Test drainage by digging 12 inches deep and filling the hole with water. If water drains completely within an hour, drainage is adequate. If water remains for several hours, drainage is poor.
To improve drainage:
-
Adding compost will help loosen up heavy soils and keep water in sandy soils. Compost also nourishes plants and beneficial microbes.
-
Create raised planting beds at least 6 inches high to elevate garlic roots above excess moisture.
-
Plant garlic in mounded rows around 6 inches high to facilitate drainage.
-
Avoid low-lying areas where water collects.
-
Grow garlic in containers with drainage holes. This allows full control over soil quality and drainage.
Preparing Garden Soil
After choosing a site, preparing existing soil is the next crucial step:
-
Remove weeds, spent crops, and plant debris. Weed removal is vital to eliminate competition for nutrients.
-
Loosen the top 12 inches of soil with a spading fork or tiller to eliminate compacted layers. This allows garlic roots to penetrate deeply.
-
Incorporate 2-4 inches of aged compost, rotted manure, peat moss, or other organic materials. This improves nutrients, moisture retention, and drainage.
-
Test soil pH, which should be 6.0-7.0 for optimal garlic growth. Adjust pH if needed with lime (to raise) or sulfur (to lower).
-
Mix in an all-purpose organic fertilizer per label instructions. This gives garlic the nutrients it requires for vigorous growth.
-
Shape prepared soil into raised beds or rows. Beds should be at least 6 inches high and 12-24 inches wide.
-
Water beds thoroughly to moisten and settle the soil before planting garlic cloves. Consistent moisture is key for establishing roots.
Planting Garlic Sets vs. Seeds
There are two methods for starting garlic:
Garlic sets – Sets are pre-formed bulbs broken into individual cloves for planting. This is the easiest, most foolproof method. Buy fresh sets each season for best results.
Garlic seeds – These are the small bulbils that sometimes grow on garlic scapes. Bulbils take 2 years to form mature bulbs, requiring patience. Start bulbils in containers before transplanting into garden beds.
Garlic sets are recommended, especially for beginners. Sets readily adapt to local conditions and produce bulbs in one season.
Companion Planting with Garlic
The strong aroma of garlic can deter certain insects and animals. Interplanting garlic with other veggies utilizes these natural pest-fighting qualities:
-
Tomatoes, peppers, eggplants – Repels aphids, spider mites, cabbage loopers
-
Carrots, lettuces – Confuses carrot flies
-
Cucumbers, squash, pumpkins – Repels cucumber beetles, squash bugs, ants
-
Basil, parsley, chamomile – Masks scent of vegetables from pests
Avoid planting garlic near peas and beans, as the flavor can negatively impact their growth.
Planting Garlic Sets
Follow these guidelines when planting garlic sets:
-
Timing – Plant 4-6 weeks before expected first fall frost
-
Spacing – Plant cloves 4-6 inches apart in all directions
-
Depth – Plant cloves 2-3 inches deep with pointed tips facing up
-
Orientation – Place cloves root-side down and tips pointing up
-
Pressure – Firmly press each clove into the soil to prevent floating
-
Watering – Water thoroughly after planting and keep soil moist until sprouting
-
Mulching – Apply 4-6 inches of mulch over beds after planting to insulate for winter
Ongoing Garlic Bed Care
Caring for garlic beds continues after planting:
-
Weed control – Use mulch to suppress weeds. Hand pull any weeds to eliminate competition.
-
Watering – Garlic needs 1-2 inches of water weekly. More during dry or hot periods.
-
Fertilizing – Side dress with nitrogen fertilizer in early spring to stimulate growth.
-
Pest management – Watch for leek moth, thrips, onion maggot. Remove by hand or use insecticidal soap.
-
Harvesting – Dig up garlic heads in mid-summer when 3-5 bottom leaves turn brown. Cure bulbs before storing.
-
Crop rotation – Rotate garlic beds each year to prevent disease buildup.
With attentive care all season long, your garlic will reach its full potential.
Troubleshooting Common Problems
Even with proper preparation, garlic can still run into issues:
-
Poor emergence – Ensure adequate soil moisture. Replant cloves in spring if needed.
-
Stunted plants – May indicate insufficient sunlight, nutrients, or drainage. Amend soil as required.
-
Rotting bulbs – Improve drainage and avoid overwatering. Allow soil to dry between waterings.
-
Pest damage – Inspect plants often and remove pests manually. Use insecticidal soap only if infestation is severe.
-
Small bulbs – Harvest on time before bulbs divide. Improve sun exposure and soil nutrition.
-
Fungal diseases – Improve air flow. Rotate planting sites. Remove and destroy infected plants promptly.
With attentive care and quick corrections, potential problems can be managed before they worsen.
Key Tips for Garlic Success
Follow these best practices when prepping beds and growing garlic:
-
Test drainage and amend soil with compost before planting
-
Space cloves 4-6 inches apart to allow for adequate size
-
Use the largest, healthiest bulbs when selecting garlic sets
-
Mulch beds well to regulate soil temperature and moisture
-
Monitor regularly for pests and diseases. Remove affected plants promptly.
-
Allow soil to dry out between waterings to prevent bulb rot
-
Side dress with nitrogen fertilizer to stimulate vigorous foliage growth
-
Harvest bulbs on time based on leaf color to maximize size
With proper soil preparation and attentive planting and care, you’ll be rewarded with a bountiful garlic harvest. Consider ordering high-quality garlic seeds online to give your crop a head start. Growing garlic is fun, easy, and tasty!
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best time to plant garlic?
Early fall is best, around 4-6 weeks before your first expected frost. This allows roots to establish before winter.
How should I prepare soil for planting garlic?
Choose well-drained soil and amend with compost or manure. Fertilize with a balanced organic fertilizer. Create raised beds for improved drainage.
Should garlic cloves be planted individually or in clusters?
Separate cloves and plant individually, 2 inches deep and 4-6 inches apart. Larger cloves produce bigger bulbs.
What are the benefits of raised beds for garlic?
Raised beds improve drainage, soil quality, and aeration. They warm earlier in spring, boosting growth and yields.
How do I care for garlic during the growing season?
Keep beds weed-free and water regularly. Fertilize lightly with a nitrogen source in early spring. Monitor for pests and diseases.
When is garlic typically ready to harvest?
Harvest when the lower 3-5 leaves turn yellow and start drying out. This is usually in mid-late summer.
What plants pair well with garlic?
Good companions are tomatoes, peppers, chamomile, carrots, and lettuce. Avoid planting near beans and peas.
How can I prevent diseases in my garlic plants?
Improve drainage. Rotate planting sites each year. Remove any infected plants promptly. Avoid overcrowding.
What should I do with garlic scapes?
Scapes can be chopped and used like garlic in cooking. Or use them as a garnish. Removing them redirects energy to the bulbs.
Can I plant grocery store bought garlic?
Yes, as long as the heads appear healthy and disease-free. But consider purchasing sets specifically for planting.
How far apart should I space garlic cloves when planting?
Space cloves 4-6 inches apart to allow adequate room for growth and bulb sizing. Closer spacing can restrict size.

How to Grow Garlic:
Difficulty: Easy. Garlic is not suited for growing in containers. This can be done, but it’s better in the ground, or possibly in raised beds.
Timing: Plant cloves from September to the end of November. You can plant for a fall harvest for a short time at the beginning of March, but in this climate, garlic does better if it stays outside all winter.
Sowing: Separate the cloves and set each one, pointed end up, 10-15cm (4-6”) apart and with the tip of the clove 2-5cm (1-2”) deep. Don’t skin the cloves! Use deeper planting if rain or frost may expose the cloves, and shallower planting if using mulch or planting into heavy soil. The largest cloves will make the largest bulbs.
Soil: Rich, well drained soil. Dig deeply, add a lot of compost if your soil is heavy, and don’t step on it to pack it down. Lime the soil several weeks before planting if the pH is lower than 6. 0.
Growing: Fertilize when spring growth starts. Water as needed and keep weeded. Cut flower stalks to keep energy in the bulb. If individual cloves haven’t formed, either eat the clove or replant and it will bulb next year.
Harvest: When the tops begin to dry, pull and air-dry like onions. Some growers recommend waiting until 75% of the plant has dried up before pulling, and others say the key is to pull when each plant is down to 6 green leaves. More on When to Harvest Garlic.
Storage: Store in a room temperature, dry environment. Moisture, heat, or excessive cold may provoke sprouting.
Pests & Disease: Many growers have been hit with White Rot that causes black spots and decay on the bulbs. It is easily spread in infected soil and water and is very persistent in the soil. Flooding the bed for 4 weeks in the spring may kill it. Best way to avoid it is not to leave decaying alliums in the ground and by using a strict 4-year rotation.
Companion Planting: Planting garlic near roses will help to repel aphids. Because of its sulphur compounds, it may also help repel whiteflies, Japanese beetles, root maggots, carrot rust fly, and other pests. Garlic, made into a tea, or spray, will act as a systemic pesticide, drawing up into the cells of the plants. It’s a good companion for beets, Brassicas, celery, lettuce, potatoes, strawberries, and tomatoes. Avoid planting it near peas or beans of any kind. More on Companion Planting.