Ferns are beautiful, graceful plants that can thrive indoors and outdoors However, even the hardiest ferns need repotting every couple of years to refresh the soil and give the plant room to grow Repotting a fern may seem daunting, but it’s easier than you think if you follow a few simple steps.
When to Repot Your Fern
You’ll know it’s time to repot your fern when
-
The plant becomes top-heavy and tips over easily, This happens when the root mass gets too big for the pot,
-
Roots are growing out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. This is a sure sign your fern is pot-bound.
-
When you water, the water goes through the soil and out the bottom. The roots have taken over the pot, leaving no space for water to stay.
-
Growth has slowed or stopped. Because the roots can’t grow, the plant can’t get enough water and nutrients.
-
The plant is drooping or yellowing. These can be signs of poor nutrient absorption due to restricted roots.
For most ferns, aim to repot every 2-3 years. Repotting in the spring is best because plants start to grow again after a restful winter.
Supplies You’ll Need
Gather these supplies before repotting:
- New pot – go up 1-2 inches in diameter from the current pot
- Potting mix suitable for ferns – incorporate peat moss to retain moisture
- Sharp, clean pruners or scissors
- Tray to contain mess while repotting
Optional:
- Chopstick or skewer to loosen root-bound soil
- Watering can or spray bottle with water
- Slow-release fertilizer
Step-by-Step Repotting Instructions
Follow these simple steps for stress-free fern repotting:
1. Water the Fern
Water your fern the day before repotting. You can work with wet soil better and it’s less likely to fall apart.
2. Remove the Fern From the Pot
Turn the pot upside down in your hand and gently squeeze and tug on the sides to release the root ball. You may need to use a chopstick or skewer to loosen compacted roots.
Alternatively, lay the pot on its side and gently coax the root ball out. Avoid pulling on stems and leaves.
3. Prune Roots if Needed
Inspect the root ball and prune off any dead, diseased, circling, or congested roots. This encourages new growth.
4. Prepare the New Pot
Fill the new pot about 1/3 full with fresh, loose potting mix. Use a fern-friendly mix with peat moss.
5. Position the Fern
Place the fern in the new pot. The top of the root ball should sit just below the pot’s rim.
Add more potting mix around the sides to stabilize it. The base of the stems should sit at the same level as before.
6. Backfill With Potting Mix
Hold the fern in place and gently fill in around the roots with more fresh, damp potting mix. Tap the pot to settle the soil.
7. Water Thoroughly
Water slowly and thoroughly until water drains from the bottom drainage holes. This will settle the soil further.
8. Add Slow-Release Fertilizer (Optional)
Sprinkle slow-release fertilizer on the soil surface per label directions. This gives the roots a nutrient boost.
9. Provide Aftercare
Keep the fern out of direct sun for a week or so to allow it to recover from repotting stress. Maintain evenly moist soil and resume normal care.
With the right technique and a few simple supplies, repotting a fern is easy. Just follow the steps above, and your fern will be thriving in its roomy new home again soon. Repotting revitalizes growth and keeps your fern looking lush for years to come.
On Mobile (iOS/Android)
- On iOS, go to Settings > Safari > Privacy to change how Safari works.
- To use Chrome on Android, open the app, tap the three dots, and then go to Settings > Privacy and security > Cookies.
Disabling cookies can make your online experience more difficult. Some websites may not load properly, or you may be logged out frequently. Also, certain features may not work as expected.
Ferns are houseplants that don’t flower but are grown for their leaves, which can be very different from one type to the next. For example, the Boston fern has soft leaves, while the Bear paw fern has tough, leathery leaves. As members of the Polypodiospoda class, ferns are vascular plants that reproduce by means of spores. They have complex leaves that uncoil from fiddleheads into fronds. Although they are native to tropical and sub-tropical rainforests ferns are easy to grow and maintain. Ferns require indirect sunlight, moist soil, and a humid atmosphere.
Ferns prefer potting soil with good drainage and high organic content. To keep the soil moist, potting mix should have peat moss or sphagnum, sand or gravel for drainage, and garden loam or potting soil that has been sterilized and packed in bags. Add 1/2 ounce of dolomitic limestone to each gallon of soil mix and 1 tablespoon of bone meal or 20% superphosphate. See Potting Media for additional info.
Choose a container with a size proportionate to the plant keeping in mind that most ferns have a shallow root system. A plant is too small for its pot may drown in the excess water held in the soil. There should be roughly one inch of space between the root system and the sides of the container. Ferns may need to be repotted often but wait until it seems overcrowded.
Any pot used should have a drainage hole at the base of the container to remove excess water. Do not put stones or broken crockery into the bottom of a container as a method of drainage. This will actually create an environment where the plants roots will sit in water-logged planting medium. A coffee basket filter placed in the bottom before the soil mix will work well to keep soil from running out of drainage holes. Another option is double potting. Put the fern and potting mix in a container that lets water pass through, like a clay pot. Then, put that container inside a bigger pot that has sphagnum moss around the outside. Keep the sphagnum moist.
Ferns prefer indirect lighting from a north or east-facing window. The intense sunlight from a southern or western exposure may dry out or even scald the foliage. A sheer curtain can reduce light penetration or move the fern far enough from the window to avoid direct sunlight.
Daytime temperatures should average 65-75°F. Nighttime temperatures should be about 10° lower, preferably below 60°F. Higher temperatures may require more frequent watering (see Humidity/Watering).
When temperatures are below 60°F add water only when the soil is dry to the touch. If plants receive too much or too little water, shedding of leaflets will occur. Browning on the tips of the fronds and the yellowing and dropping of interior leaves are all signs of a low humidity. Certain practices, in addition to the double potting mentioned above, can be taken to increase humidity surrounding the plant. See Houseplant Watering Techniques for additional information.
- Lined Tray: Put a saucer or tray with pebbles on it under the pot. Add water to the pebbles so that they always have at least ¼” of water. The pot’s bottom shouldn’t touch the tray’s water. Sitting in water will make fungal diseases and root rot more likely. To keep algae from growing in the water or on the pebbles, it’s best to replace the gravel every so often or wash it well every three months.
- Misting: Use room temperature water. This is helpful in the winter, when heaters can dry out the air.
- Room humidifier: Put a room humidifier near the plant to get 2050 to 2050% humidity in the room, or think about putting the plant in a room that is usually damp, like the bathroom.
Ferns require little fertilizer unless actively growing in winter months. Liquid houseplant fertilizer should be applied at half the recommended amount. Too much fertilizer will scorch the foliage. Do not fertilize newly divided or repotted plants for 6 months. See Fertilizing Houseplants for additional information.
Ferns will require repotting every few years. Divide overcrowded plants by removing them from the pot then use a sharp knife to cut into the root mass, dividing it into 2 or 3 sections. Repot and keep the soil medium evenly moist and supplying humidity for the first few weeks.
Scale, mealybugs, and spider mites are the most common insect problems. Either hand picking or a hard spray with warm water will dislodge most insects. A cotton ball dipped in rubbing alcohol can be used to carefully wipe foliage. Avoid pesticide use that may damage the sensitive plant. See Insecticidal soaps for additional information.
What’s Inside an Authentication Cookie?
Typically, it contains:
- A unique session ID (not your actual password)
- Optional metadata (e.g., expiration time, security flags)
Analytics cookies are cookies used to collect data about how visitors interact with a website. Their primary purpose is to help website owners understand and improve user experience by analyzing things like:
- How users navigate the site
- Which pages are most/least visited
- How long users stay on each page
- What device, browser, or location the user is from
Some examples of data analytics cookies may collect:
- Page views and time spent on pages
- Click paths (how users move from page to page)
- Bounce rate (users who leave without interacting)
- User demographics (location, language, device)
- Referring websites (how users arrived at the site)
Here’s how you can disable cookies in common browsers:
- Click the three dots in the upper right corner of Chrome when it’s open.
- Select “Privacy and security” from the menu, then “Cookies and other site data.”
- Pick the option you want: Block all cookies (not a good idea because it can break most websites); Block third-party cookies (can block ads and tracking cookies).
- Click the three lines in the upper right corner of Firefox when it’s open.
- Go to Settings > Privacy & Security.
- You can pick Strict or Custom under “Enhanced Tracking Protection” to block most cookies or pick and choose which cookies to block.
- Click Safari in the upper left corner of the screen to open it.
- Go to Preferences > Privacy.
- To stop all cookies, check the box next to Block all cookies. You can also choose to block third-party cookies.
- Click the three dots in the upper right corner of Edge when it’s open.
- Click on Privacy, search, and services, then click on Cookies and site permissions.
- From there, you can change your cookie settings, such as whether to block all cookies or just third-party cookies.
How to Repot a Fern
FAQ
When should you repot ferns?
Moving your plant to a new pot is best done in the spring, since that’s when they grow the most. Pick a bigger pot and make sure the bottom has lots of holes for water to drain.
What is the best potting soil for a fern?
Ferns prefer potting soil with good drainage and high organic content. A potting mix should have peat moss or sphagnum for moisture retention, sand or gravel for drainage, and sterilized bagged garden loam or potting soil.
Why is it illegal to transplant ferns?
Dear Claude, The short answer is that you really shouldn’t. In fact, in many areas, transplanting ferns from the wild is illegal, and with good reason: Collectors in parts of the globe have succeeded in driving several species to the point of extinction.
Do ferns like big or small pots?
Small pots (4-6 inches) are best for young ferns to prevent overwatering. Choose medium pots (8-10 inches) for established ferns after 1-2 years. Nov 26, 2024.