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How to Propagate Evergreen Trees: A Simple Guide for Beginners

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Propagating evergreen trees can seem daunting for beginners, but it’s actually a straightforward process that anyone can do with the right guidance In this article, I’ll walk you through the step-by-step process I’ve used to successfully propagate a variety of evergreen tree species in my own backyard nursery.

Why Propagate Evergreen Trees?

Before jumping into the how-to let’s first go over some of the key reasons you may want to propagate evergreens

  • Save money: Buying mature evergreen trees can be very expensive, often $100+ per tree. Propagating your own from cuttings is practically free.

  • Control variety: By propagating, you can make more of your favorite tree types. No more searching for rare finds.

  • Fill out new landscapes: Propagated trees help you quickly establish the look you want in new garden beds or yards.

  • Tell your friends that evergreen trees are great gifts for green thumbs. Propagating your own allows you to share abundantly.

  • Satisfaction: There’s something fulfilling about nurturing a tree from cutting to maturity. Propagating your own trees provides a rewarding hands-on experience.

Overview of the Propagation Process

Propagating evergreens takes patience, but the process itself is straightforward. Here’s a quick overview:

  • Take cuttings from parent trees in late summer/early fall when growth has hardened off.

  • Treat cuttings with rooting hormone powder/gel to stimulate root growth.

  • Stick treated cuttings in pots filled with well-draining propagation mix.

  • Maintain consistent moisture and provide bottom heat.

  • Wait! Cuttings need 9 to 12 months to grow strong roots that are ready to be transplanted.

Now let’s explore each of these steps in more detail.

Selecting and Taking Evergreen Cuttings

The first step is selecting appropriate evergreen cuttings to propagate. Here are a few tips:

  • Focus on lateral shoots or side branches rather than terminal shoots. Lateral cuttings root quicker.

  • Choose semi-hardwood cuttings that snap cleanly rather than bend. Avoid soft new growth.

  • Take cuttings in late summer/early fall after seasonal growth has hardened off.

  • Select cuttings that are 4-6 inches long and approximately pencil width.

  • Use sharp, clean pruners to take cuttings. Make a straight cut just below a node.

  • Take more cuttings than you think you’ll need. Success rates vary, so extra cuttings will make sure you have enough.

Make sure to label each cutting with the plant name and date taken. This helps keep track as cuttings root.

Treating Cuttings with Rooting Aids

The next step is treating your evergreen cuttings with a rooting hormone powder or gel. Here’s how:

  • Lightly trim the bottom 1/2 inch at a 45 degree angle to expose more surface area.

  • Dip the trimmed end in rooting hormone powder up to the first set of needles.

  • Alternatively, apply gel to the last 2-3 inches, covering from the cut tip upwards.

The active ingredients in rooting products stimulate root cell formation. This significantly improves the chances your cuttings will root successfully.

Planting Cuttings in Propagation Mix

Now it’s time to stick your treated evergreen cuttings into pots filled with propagation medium. Here are some tips:

  • Choose small 2-3 inch pots or propagation trays with cells. This prevents overwatering.

  • Use a sterile, soilless mix like 1 part peat moss to 1 part perlite. This prevents disease issues.

  • Water the mix well before planting to moisten. It should be damp but not saturated.

  • Poke holes in the mix with a pencil. Insert cuttings at least 2 inches deep.

  • Gently firm the mix around each cutting. Leave 1-2 sets of needles exposed.

  • Water thoroughly after planting to settle the mix and eliminate air pockets.

Providing the Proper Propagation Environment

Root formation happens best in a warm, humid environment. Follow these tips to create ideal conditions:

  • Bottom heat: Use a propagation mat or heating cable under pots. Maintain 75-80°F soil temperature.

  • Humidity dome: Cover pots with a plastic dome to keep humidity very high.

  • Indirect light: Avoid direct sun. Place pots in bright shade or under grow lights.

  • Air circulation: Use small fans to gently circulate air and prevent fungal issues.

  • Consistent moisture: Keep mix damp but not soggy. Water when the top inch becomes dry.

Bottom heat and humidity are vital to strongly encourage rooting and prevent cuttings from drying out. Monitor conditions daily and make adjustments as needed.

Being Patient for Results!

This is the hardest part for many propagators – you must be patient! It typically takes 9-12 months for evergreen cuttings to form a dense root system suitable for transplanting.

Avoid disturbing or tugging cuttings before then. Instead, gently check for root development every 2-3 months. Look for new white roots emerging from the drainage holes.

Once cuttings have a network of healthy white roots filling the pot, it’s time to transplant them into larger containers or a permanent garden location. Gradually acclimate them to lower humidity conditions first.

Troubleshooting Common Propagation Problems

Even experienced propagators run into problems occasionally. Here are some common issues and solutions:

  • Cuttings drying out: Increase humidity or mist more frequently. Avoid overheating.

  • Poor root development: Ensure bottom heat is adequate. Apply new rooting hormone and replant.

  • Fungus/rot: Allow more airflow. Water less frequently and use sterile mix. Apply fungicide drench if needed.

Don’t get discouraged! Propagating evergreens takes patience and practice. Adjust your methods based on issues you encounter.

Final Thoughts

how to propagate evergreen trees

Preparing Needled Evergreen Cuttings

Needled evergreens are often propagated as hardwood cuttings. Because they still have leaves (needles), these cuttings are handled in a different manner than hardwood cuttings of deciduous plants.

  • Use shoot tips only, making the cutting 6-8 inches long.
  • Take the needles out of the bottom 3 to 4 inches of the cutting. Cut off the extra needles so that they only cover your palm (Figure 7) to keep water from escaping.
  • Draw a knife point down the bottom inch of the stem on two sides to hurt the base of the cut (Figure 8). Cut into the stem but do not split it. Put rooting hormone on the bottom inch of the stem and put about 2 inches of the stem into the rooting mix. Make sure that none of the needles touch the mix’s surface. Firm the mix around it.

If the area is well lit and not heated, the potted cuttings can be put in a heater to warm the rooting mix. If not, cover the pot and cuttings with a plastic bag and place in a warm, brightly lit room, as with deciduous hardwood cuttings. Providing light is essential for successful rooting of these cuttings. Check for roots once a month. It may take three or four months for roots to develop. Acclimate rooted cuttings as described above.

How to Make Specialized Stem Cuttings

Some houseplants can be propagated most easily using these variations of stem cuttings.

Cane cuttings are used for Dieffenbachia, Dracaena (including corn plant), and other plants with thick stems. The stem, or cane, is cut into segments and placed into rooting mix. New shoots emerge from the buds that are on the cane; roots grow from the portion of the cane in the rooting mix (Figure 9). The initial absence of leaves reduces water loss.

  • Cut the cane into pieces that are about 2 to 3 inches long and have several buds on them.
  • Choose a healthy bud and lay the cane horizontally in the rooting mix so that the bud faces up and only the bottom half of the cane is in the mix. Rooting hormone can be put on the part of the cane that is in the rooting mix.
  • Rooting hormone can also be put on the end of the cane that is closest to the plant’s base. The cutting is then put about half an inch deep and vertically into the rooting mix (Figure 10).

Leaf-bud cuttings use just a small portion of the stem (up to 1 1/2 inches) that contains a single bud and single leaf. The stem portion produces roots, and a new shoot develops from the bud (Figure 11). Place the stem in rooting mix so that the bud is below the surface and the leaf is facing the light. Treat the stem with rooting hormone. This method is used with grape ivy, geranium, philodendron, English ivy, and the fleshy-leaved peperomias.

Since both types of specialized stem cuttings will lose water easily, place the pot in a plastic bag until roots form.

How to propagate evergreen trees from limb unions and cuttings.

FAQ

Can you root evergreen cuttings in water?

Chinese Evergreen propagation is possible through the following 3 techniques: in soil, in water (both from stem cuttings), and by division (using the offsets).

Can you grow pine trees from cuttings?

Yes, it is possible to grow pine trees from cuttings, though it’s generally more challenging than propagating other types of plants.

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