Sprouting potatoes happen to all of us. You buy a bag of potatoes at the grocery store, stash them in the pantry, and weeks later discover they’ve started to sprout. While some may see this as a sign to toss them out, sprouting potatoes can actually be used to grow new potato plants! With just a sprouted potato or two, you can grow pounds of delicious homegrown potatoes.
Growing potatoes from a sprouted potato is an easy and fun gardening project. In this complete guide, I’ll walk you through everything you need to know about planting sprouted potatoes and growing your own crop of spuds
Why Potatoes Sprout
Potatoes are live organisms with the natural ability to reproduce. Inside each potato are “eyes” which are actually buds capable of producing new sprouts and plants When conditions are right, the eyes will begin to sprout as the potato attempts to grow new potato plants.
The ideal conditions for sprouting are:
- Warm temperature between 60-70°F
- High humidity
- Diffused light
This mimics the environment of being planted in the ground. Given the chance, potatoes will sprout and grow new plants as part of their natural life cycle. Storing potatoes properly can delay sprouting, but it won’t stop it forever.
Should You Plant Sprouted Potatoes?
You absolutely can plant sprouted potatoes! Not only is it possible, starting with sprouted potatoes can give you a head start on the growing season. The key is to select healthy sprouted potatoes and follow the proper planting methods.
The main concern with planting store-bought potatoes is disease. Grocery store potatoes may carry blight or other pathogens that could infect your crop. For best results, try to source certified disease-free seed potatoes.
If you plan to use store-bought potatoes, inspect them closely and avoid any with signs of decay or very long sprouts. Short, firm sprouts are best for planting.
How to Prep Potatoes for Planting
Before planting sprouted potatoes, you’ll want to prep them using a process called “chitting.” Chitting encourages stubby, robust sprouts ideal for planting.
Step 1: Choose a Warm, Bright Area
Select an area that maintains 60-70°F temperatures. Near a sunny window is perfect. Avoid direct hot sun which can dry out sprouts.
Step 2: Place Potatoes in Egg Cartons/Trays
Sit the potatoes sprout side up in trays. Egg cartons work great for this. Allowing air flow around the tubers prevents mold.
Step 3: Leave Potatoes to Sprout
Wait 2-4 weeks for sprouts to develop. Check periodically and remove any potatoes that rot. Once sprouts are 1/4-1/2 inch long they are ready for planting.
Chitting gives potatoes the best start but you can also skip this step if needed. Plant shortly after sprouts emerge if not chitting.
How to Plant Sprouted Potatoes
Once your seed potatoes are prepped, it’s time to plant them. Follow these steps for successfully growing sprouted potatoes.
Choose a Sunny Spot
Potatoes need at least 6-8 hours of full sun daily. Avoid shaded areas.
Prepare Soil
Loosen soil and mix in compost or aged manure to enrich it. Potatoes prefer slightly acidic soil, pH around 5.5.
Dig Trenches or Holes
Dig 6 inch deep trenches or individual 6 inch deep holes spaced 12-18 inches apart.
Place Sprouted Potatoes
Place sprouted potatoes cut-side down approximately 6 inches apart. Bury with 4 inches of soil.
Hill Soil as Plants Grow
As plants grow, mound more soil around bases keeping potatoes covered.
Water 1-2 Times per Week
Consistent moisture is important, especially as plants mature. Avoid overwatering.
Follow these steps for the best results growing potatoes from sprouted potatoes!
Caring for Potato Plants
Potato plants require care and attention to produce a bountiful harvest. Here are some tips:
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Water 1-2 times per week – Potatoes need consistent moisture to size up their tubers. Wait until top few inches of soil are dry before watering again.
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Hill soil as plants grow – Hilling is mounding more soil around the bases as plants get taller. This encourages more potatoes and prevents greening.
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Fertilize – Apply balanced fertilizer when plants are 6-12 inches tall to support plant growth. Too much nitrogen can hinder tuber production.
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Weed – Weed regularly to prevent competition for nutrients. Mulch also helps suppress weeds.
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Watch for pests – Be on the lookout for common potato pests like potato beetles, flea beetles, and aphids.
With proper care you can expect a bountiful harvest around 3-4 months after planting sprouted potatoes.
Harvesting Potatoes
Timing your potato harvest correctly is key to getting the best yields. There are two main signs that indicate potato plants are ready for harvesting:
Foliage Dying Back
As potatoes near maturity, the foliage will turn yellow and start to die back. Once the plants are around 50% yellowed/dead, the potatoes are nearing harvest time.
Test Dig
Carefully dig around in the soil by a plant and feel for larger potatoes. If tubers are large with thick skins, they are mature and ready for harvest.
For best results, wait 2-3 weeks after foliage starts dying back before harvesting. Use a garden fork to gently loosen soil and remove potatoes. Avoid bruising potatoes as you dig them up.
Storing Potatoes
Proper storage preserves potatoes for months after harvesting. Here are some key storage tips:
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Cure potatoes – Leave freshly dug potatoes on the ground surface for 2-4 hours to dry and thicken skins. Avoid direct sun.
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Brush off dirt – Use a soft brush to remove dirt. Don’t wash potatoes before storage.
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Store in cool, dark place – Ideal conditions are 40-50°F and high humidity. A basement or cupboard works well.
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Use within 1 month – Check regularly and remove any spoiling potatoes to prevent rot spread.
Follow these simple storage guidelines to enjoy homegrown potatoes for months after harvest season.
Avoiding Problems
Growing healthy potato plants starts with disease-free seed potatoes. Be on the lookout for these potential problems:
Diseases
Late blight – Causes leaves & tubers to rot. Source certified disease-free seed potatoes to prevent.
Pests
Colorado Potato Beetles – Yellow/black striped beetles that feed on leaves. Manually remove or use Bacillus thuringiensis.
Prevention Tips
- Practice crop rotation
- Remove weeds/debris
- Use row covers
Catching issues early and using preventive methods are critical to avoiding problems.
How Far Apart Do You Plant Sprouted Potatoes?
They’re planted about 12 to 16 inches apart, in rows 2 to 3 feet apart. If you’re planting a “patch” rather than rows, you can just plant them 16” apart in all directions.
How Long Should Potato Sprouts Be Before Planting?
Once potatoes start to sprout, do you have to wait until they’re a certain length before planting? Nope.
As soon as they sprout, even just teeny tiny sprouts, you can plant potatoes. Most people just break off those teeny tiny sprouts that are only 1 or 2 millimeters long and still eat those potatoes for dinner, but they’re good for planting too.
Once sprouts reach about 1/4 inch or more, the potatoes are really producing toxins that aren’t great for eating, so that’s when I’d suggest consigning your sprouted potatoes to planting rather than eating.
If left a really long time, potato sprouts can really go crazy, and I have found potatoes that rolled out of the storage bin and ended up with sprouts about a foot long!
Those are also still fine for planting, just be very careful with those delicate long sprouts. The potato has already put a lot of work into growing that plant material, and if you break it off it’ll lose that energy (and dramatically lower yields).
How To Plant Potatoes That Have Sprouted
FAQ
How do you plant potatoes that have already sprouted?
Plant Your Potatoes
If you are planting cut potatoes, be sure to plant them with the cut side down and the sprouts facing up. Once your potatoes are in the trench, cover your potatoes with soil.
What to do with potatoes that are sprouting?
- Safety: Sprouted potatoes contain higher levels of solanine, a natural toxin, which can cause mild digestive issues.
- What to do:
- Remove sprouts and eyes: If sprouts are small, cut them and the surrounding area off, and cook the rest of the potato.
- Discard if severely sprouted: If sprouts are long, well-developed, or if the potato is shriveled or has green spots, discard the entire potato.
- Peel the potato: Peeling can help reduce the amount of toxins you’re exposed to.
- Remove sprouts and eyes: If sprouts are small, cut them and the surrounding area off, and cook the rest of the potato.
- Symptoms of solanine poisoning: Vomiting, diarrhea, abdominal pain, headache, and fever.
Can I grow potatoes from a potato?
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What are Seed Potatoes?Seed potatoes are simply potatoes that have been allowed to sprout, with the “eyes” (buds) developing into small shoots.
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How to Grow Potatoes from Potatoes:
- Choose your potatoes: Select potatoes that have large, healthy eyes or sprouts.
- Cut and Cure: Cut the potato into pieces, ensuring each piece has at least one or two eyes. Allow the cut pieces to dry for a day or two to prevent rotting.
- Prepare your soil: Choose a location with well-draining soil and prepare a garden bed or container.
- Plant the pieces: Plant the potato pieces about 4-6 inches deep, with the eyes facing up.
- Water and Maintain: Keep the soil consistently moist, but not waterlogged.
- Hill the soil: As the plants grow, gradually mound soil around the base of the plants (hilling) to encourage more potato growth.
- Harvest: Harvest the potatoes after 70-100 days, when the leaves turn yellow and die back.
- Choose your potatoes: Select potatoes that have large, healthy eyes or sprouts.
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Considerations:
- Grocery store potatoes: While you can plant sprouted potatoes from the grocery store, they might not be certified disease-free, and some may have been treated to prevent sprouting.
- Seed potatoes: Seed potatoes, which are specifically bred for growing, are a more reliable option.
- Spacing: Allow 12-18 inches of spacing between potato pieces.
- Soil: Potatoes prefer well-drained, acidic soil.
- Sunlight: Potatoes need at least 6 hours of sunlight per day.
- Grocery store potatoes: While you can plant sprouted potatoes from the grocery store, they might not be certified disease-free, and some may have been treated to prevent sprouting.