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How to Get Rid of Aphids on Daylilies

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Daylilies are beautiful perennial flowers that can add a pop of color to any garden. However these plants can fall victim to aphid infestations. Aphids are small, sap-sucking insects that can quickly multiply and damage daylily plants. Getting rid of aphids on daylilies takes some work but it can be done through various organic and chemical treatment methods.

Identifying Aphid Infestations

The first step is learning how to identify aphid infestations on your daylilies. Aphids are tiny, soft-bodied insects that come in colors like green, yellow, brown, red, or black. They tend to cluster on the undersides of leaves or on stems. Aphids secrete a sticky substance called honeydew which can cause black sooty mold to form on the plants. Other signs of an aphid infestation include:

  • Curling, wrinkling, or curling of leaves
  • Stunted plant growth
  • Leaf yellowing
  • Flower damage

Check the daylilies frequently to catch infestations early before they spread and cause serious harm. Focus on inspecting the undersides of leaves and the places where leaves join stems.

Organic Aphid Treatments

If you catch the aphid infestation early, there are several organic remedies you can try first before turning to chemical insecticides:

Insecticidal soaps – Insecticidal soaps made from potassium fatty acids can kill soft-bodied insects like aphids on contact Spray on daylilies according to label instructions

Neem oil – Extracted from the neem tree, this oil disrupts the aphid life cycle and feeding habits when sprayed on plants.

Aphids can be knocked off of daylily stems and leaves with a strong blast of water. Focus on undersides of leaves.

Diatomaceous earth – This powder made from fossilized algae damages the exoskeleton and kills aphids on contact. Dust it around the base of plants.

Ladybugs – These beneficial predators will feast on aphids. Buy live ladybugs and release near infested daylilies.

Bug-killing soap—If you spray bug-killing soap on plants, aphids will die right away. Make your own or buy pre-made soap.

Essential oils – Oils like peppermint, clove, rosemary, and thyme can deter and kill aphids when sprayed on plants.

Chemical Aphid Treatments

For severe aphid infestations, you may need to turn to chemical insecticides. Some options include:

Imidacloprid: This systemic insecticide is taken up by the plant and protects its cells and sap from insects that feed on sap, like aphids. It can provide long-lasting protection against future infestations.

Malathion – Malathion is an organophosphate insecticide that can kill aphids on contact. It provides quick knockdown of heavy infestations. Take precautions to protect beneficial insects.

Horticultural oils – These oils smother aphids and disrupt their feeding, movement and reproduction. Apply according to label directions to avoid leaf burn.

Insecticidal soap – As mentioned, insecticidal soap sprayed on plants can kill aphids through contact. It’s gentler than other chemical options.

When using chemical insecticides, be sure to carefully follow label directions for dosage, timing of application and precautions. Only use insecticides specially formulated for garden plants, not indoor use products.

Preventing Aphids on Daylilies

Prevention is also key to protecting daylilies from aphids. Here are some tips:

  • Maintain healthy soil and plants to avoid stressed, vulnerable plants.

  • Remove weeds which can harbor aphids.

  • Use reflective mulches which can confuse aphids.

  • Use row covers to form physical barriers against aphids.

  • Wash off plants with water to dislodge aphids.

  • Introduce beneficial insects like ladybugs or lacewings which prey on aphids.

  • Apply insecticidal soap or horticultural oil early in the season to deter aphids.

With vigilant monitoring and a combination of organic treatments, chemical insecticides and prevention, you can get rid of and prevent destructive aphids on your prized daylilies. Pay close attention for the first signs of leaf curling or honeydew buildup and take quick action at the first sight of these sap-sucking pests.

how to get rid of aphids on daylilies

Insects & Other Pests

Flower Thrips (Frankliniella tritici): Flower thrips and various other thrips species are serious pests of daylilies. Thrips are slender, dark-colored insects with fringed wings. Adults are less than 1/16-inch in length. To see these small, fast-moving pests, use a 10x magnifying lens. Thrips are typically found on leaves and between flower petals. To get food, both adults and nymphs (young insects that look like adults but are smaller) scrape the surface of plant cells to get to the sap inside. When they feed on flower buds, the flower may die without opening. With a light infestation, their feeding causes leaves to have silvery speckles or streaks. With severe infestations, leaves and flowers are stunted and distorted and may turn brown and die.

Sampling: As a result of their small size, thrips are difficult to detect before damage is obvious. Put some leaves and flowers under a piece of stiff white paper to look for thrips on daylilies. Then, hit the paper with these plant parts. Gently tip the paper to remove any bits of trash and then examine the paper in bright sunlight. Any thrips present will move around on the paper.

Control: Several naturally occurring enemies feed on thrips. To avoid killing these beneficial insects, which naturally reduce thrips populations, insecticides should be avoided as much as possible. Blue sticky traps will help protect daylilies from thrips. Paint cardboard or wooden boards blue and then coat them with petroleum jelly. Attach them to stakes and place them near the daylilies.

If serious damage is occurring, insecticidal soap or spinosad sprays are recommended. Spinosad is a foliar systemic insecticide that can penetrate the unopened flowers to give good thrips control. Always spray in the evening to lessen the spray impact on pollinating insects. As with any pesticide, read and follow all label directions and precautions.

Two-spotted Spider Mites (Tetranychus urticae): The two-spotted spider mite and other mite species can be a problem on daylilies. Mites are not insects but are more closely related to spiders. They are very small, less than 1/50-inch long. They have piercing mouthparts that allow them to puncture plant tissue and suck plant sap. Mites tend to be more of a problem during hot, dry periods. Over time, some spider mites produce a fine web on leaves, which protects their eggs and young. With a light infestation, daylily leaves and flowers develop yellowish speckles. Partially because of the mite’s tiny size, this damage often goes unnoticed until the damage is more severe. With a heavy infestation, the speckles will run together, and entire leaves can become bleached and die. Along with leaf decline, growth is stunted.

Sampling: Like thrips, spider mites are very small and are difficult to detect before damage is obvious. To sample for mites on daylilies, follow the same procedure discussed in the thrips section above.

Control: Spider mites overwinter (survive the winter) on weeds, such as chickweed. Removing nearby weeds before spring growth is an important step in the control of spider mites. Insecticidal soap spray, if started early in the infestation, is effective at controlling spider mites. For more severe infestations, tau-fluvalinate or bifenthrin sprays will control spider mites. See Table 1 for examples of brands and products. As with all pesticides, read and follow all label directions and precautions.

Aphids: Various aphids can be pests on daylilies. Aphids are soft-bodied insects that vary in color from yellow-green to almost black. They are typically more of a problem during cool weather in the spring. They feed on leaves and flower buds by inserting their mouthparts and sucking plant sap. Their feeding can result in deformed leaves and small warty growths on flower buds. Most aphids excrete honeydew (a sugary liquid waste) after feeding on plant sap. A fungus called sooty mold will grow on the honeydew and result in dark fungal growth on the foliage.

Control: Several naturally occurring enemies feed on aphids, including green lacewings and ladybird beetles (ladybugs). As much as possible, these predators should be allowed to reduce aphid populations. Because of their phenomenal reproductive rate, aphids are very difficult to control with insecticides. If a single aphid survives, a new colony can be produced within a short time. In addition, the use of contact insecticides may also kill the beneficial predators of aphids. Insecticidal soap sprays are a less toxic alternative that can help reduce aphid populations.

However, for more severe infestations, bifenthrin, cyfluthrin, lambda cyhalothrin, or permethrin sprays will control aphids. See Table 1 for examples of brands and products.

Slugs Their feeding results in ragged notches along leaf edges and sometimes holes in the middle of leaves. The appearance of shiny, slimy trails is a typical sign of their presence. Slugs and snails feed at night and hide during the day in moist areas.

Control: Remove their daytime hiding places by removing mulch and leaf litter near the base of the plant. Apply environmentally safe snail and slug baits (containing iron phosphate) near the beds. More information on control of slugs and snails and the safest baits is available in HGIC 2357, Snails & Slugs in the Home Garden.

Daylily Leafminer: The daylily leafminer (Ophiomyia kwansonis) was introduced into the US around 2006 from Japan and Taiwan and has quickly spread over the Eastern US. The leafminer adult is a small black fly, which oviposits (lays) its eggs on daylily foliage in the spring. The small pale-yellow larvae then feed within the leaves in meandering mines that become wider as the larvae grow. The whitish mines remain visible throughout the life of the leaf, which makes infested daylilies unmarketable. This pest over-winters as small tan pupae, approximately the size of a grain of rice. Over-wintering occurs either near the base of the leaves or at the base of the plants.

Control: Prompt removal and disposal of infested foliage will reduce the spread of this pest. Clean up and dispose of all dead foliage at the end of the season, as this will help reduce over-wintering of the pupae, as well as reduce the spread of foliar diseases, such as daylily leaf streak and daylily rust. Sprays to control the leafminer may affect natural predators and parasites that can reduce the number of leafminers.

Insecticides that control this leafminer are imidacloprid sprays or plant drenches, acephate sprays, or spinosad sprays. Spinosad is a natural product that is the safest to apply, and like acephate, is a foliar systemic insecticide. This means it will penetrate the foliage to kill the larvae within the leaves. Spinosad is used to control insect pests, including thrips, caterpillars, and flies, so it is less harmful to many beneficials. However, it is always best to spray late in the evening to reduce the impact on pollinating insects. Spray with spinosad as soon as symptoms of mining are noticed.

Table 1. Disease, Insect Pest, & Mite Control on Daylilies

Active Ingredient Examples of Brands & Products
Acephate BioAdvanced Science-Based Solutions 2-in-1 Systemic Rose & Flower Care Granules with 6-9-6 Fertilizer Bonide Systemic Insect Control II
Bifenthrin Hi-Yield Bug Blaster Bifenthrin 2.4 Ready to Spray Hi-Yield Bug Blaster II Bifenthrin 2.4 Ready to Spray Monterey Mite & Insect Control Monterey Mosquito Control Martin’s FLEE Ready to Use Yard Spray Ortho Outdoor Insect Killer Concentrate Ortho Outdoor Insect Killer Ready to Spray Ortho Bug B Gon Insect Killer for Lawns & Gardens Ortho Bug B Gon Insect Killer for Lawns & Gardens1 Ortho BugClear Insect Killer for Lawns & Landscapes Bifen I/T Talstar P Professional Insecticide Up-Star Gold Insecticide Hi-Yield Vegetable & Ornamental Insect Control Granules Bonide Eight Insect Control Flower & Vegetable Above & Below Soil Insect Granules
Chlorothalonil Bonide Fung-onil Multi-purpose Fungicide Concentrate Bonide Fung-onil Multi-purpose Fungicide Ready to Use Ferti-lome Broad Spectrum Landscape & Garden Fungicide GardenTech Daconil Fungicide Concentrate GardenTech Daconil Fungicide Ready-to-Use Hi-Yield Vegetable, Flower, Fruit And Ornamental Fungicide Ortho MAX Garden Disease Control ConcentrateSouthern Ag Liquid Ornamental and Vegetable Flowable Fungicide Tiger Brand Daconil
Cyfluthrin BioAdvanced Science-Based Solutions 24 Hour Lawn Insect Killer Ready-to-Spray BioAdvanced Science-Based Solutions Complete Brand Insect Killer for Soil & Turf Ready-to-Spray I BioAdvanced Science-Based Solutions Insect Killer for Lawns Ready-to-Spray BioAdvanced Science-Based Solutions Rose & Flower Insect Killer Ready-to-Use
Lambda Cyhalothrin Bonide Eight Insect Control Garden & Home II Ready to Use Cutter Backyard Bug Control Spray Concentrate Cyzmic CS Controlled Release Insecticide Martin’s Cyonara Lawn & Garden Insect Control Martin’s Cyonara Lawn & Garden Insect Control Ready-to-Spray Spectracide Triazicide Insect Killer for Lawns & Landscapes
Horticultural Oil Bonide All Seasons Horticulture Spray Oil Ready-to-Use Bonide All Seasons Horticulture & Dormant Spray Oil Ready-to-Spray Ferti-lome Horticultural Oil Spray Monterey Horticultural Oil Concentrate Monterey Horticultural Oil RTU2 Safer Brand Horticultural & Dormant Spray Oil Concentrate Southern Ag Parafine Horticultural Oil Summit Year-Round Spray Oil
Insecticidal Soap Bonide Insecticidal Soap Multi-purpose Insect Control Ready to Use Espoma Organic Insect Soap Multi-Purpose Insect Killer Garden Safe Brand Insecticidal Soap Insect Killer Miracle-Gro Nature’s Care Insecticidal Soap Natria Insecticidal Soap Ready-to-Use Natural Guard by ferti-lome Insecticidal Soap Concentrate Safer Brand Insect Killing Soap Concentrate II Whitney Farms Insecticidal Soap 1
Mancozeb Bonide Mancozeb Flowable with Zinc Concentrate Southern Ag Dithane M-45
Myclobutanil Ferti-lome F-Stop Lawn & Garden Fungicide Monterey Fungi-Max Spectracide Immunox Multi-Purpose Fungicide Spray Concentrate For Gardens
Permethrin Bonide Eight Insect Control Vegetable, Fruit, & Flower Concentrate Bonide Eight Yard & Garden Ready to Spray Hi-Yield 38 Plus Turf, Termite & Ornamental Insect Control Hi-Yield Lawn Garden Pet & Farm Insect Control Southern Ag Permetrol Lawn & Garden Insecticide Tiger Brand Super 10 Brand
Propiconazole Banner Maxx II Fungicide Bonide Infuse Systemic Disease Control Bonide Infuse Systemic Disease Control Lawn & Landscape Ready to Spray Ferti-lome Liquid Systemic Fungicide II Quali-Pro Propiconazole 14.3 Fungicide
Spinosad Bonide Captain Jack’s Deadbug Brew Concentrate Bonide Captain Jack’s Deadbug Brew Ready to Spray Bonide Captain Jack’s Deadbug Brew Ready to Use Bonide Colorado Potato Beetle Beater Concentrate Conserve SC Turf & Ornamental Monterey Garden Insect Spray Monterey Garden Insect Spray RTU2 Natural Guard by ferti-lome Spinosad Bagworm, Tent Caterpillar & Chewing Insect Control Natural Guard by ferti-lome Spinosad Soap Ortho Insect Killer Tree & Shrub Concentrate Southern Ag Conserve Naturalyte Insect Control
Tau-Fluvalinate BioAdvanced Science-Based Solutions All-in-One Rose and Flower Spray BioAdvanced Science-Based Solutions 3-in-1 Insect, Disease & Mite Control BioAdvanced Science-Based Solutions 3-in-1 Insect, Disease & Mite Control Ready-To-Use BioAdvanced Science-Based Solutions 3-in-1 Insect, Disease & Mite Control I
Thiophanate Methyl Southern Ag Thiomyl Systemic Fungicide
1RTS = Ready to Spray (a hose-end sprayer) 2RTU = Ready to Use (a pre-mixed spray bottle)

Pesticides are updated annually. Last updates were done on 10/24 by N. Jordan Franklin.

If this document didn’t answer your questions, please contact HGIC at [email protected] or 1-888-656-9988.

Joey Williamson, PhD, HGIC Horticulture Extension Agent, Clemson University

This information is supplied with the understanding that no discrimination is intended and no endorsement of brand names or registered trademarks by the Clemson University Cooperative Extension Service is implied, nor is any discrimination intended by the exclusion of products or manufacturers not named. All recommendations are for South Carolina conditions and may not apply to other areas. Use pesticides only according to the directions on the label. All recommendations for pesticide use are for South Carolina only and were legal at the time of publication, but the status of registration and use patterns are subject to change by action of state and federal regulatory agencies. Follow all directions, precautions and restrictions that are listed.

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Get Rid of Aphids: Fast and Easy

FAQ

How to get rid of aphids on daylilies fast?

Insecticidal soap sprays are a less toxic alternative that can help reduce aphid populations. However, for more severe infestations, bifenthrin, cyfluthrin, lambda cyhalothrin, or permethrin sprays will control aphids.

Can I use Dawn dish soap to get rid of aphids?

AI Overview
  • The surfactants in Dawn dish soap create a film that coats the aphids, preventing them from breathing.
  • This film disrupts their ability to move and feed, effectively killing them. 

What is the fastest way to get rid of aphids?

AI Overview
  • Hosing off: A strong stream of water from a garden hose can dislodge aphids from plants. 

  • Handpicking: For small infestations, you can manually remove aphids, especially from the undersides of leaves. 

  • Pruning: Removing heavily infested plant parts can help contain the problem. 

What is the best homemade aphid killer?

Use rubbing alcohol to kill aphids. Dilute it heavily, with 20 parts water to 1 part rubbing alcohol and spray on foliage and stems. Apr 23, 2024.

How do you get rid of aphids on daylilies?

There are several safe and easy ways to get rid of aphids on daylilies. You can use cold water, create your own mixture, or use insecticide. Beneficial aphid-killing insects have also been proven to eliminate the problem for you and keep your daylilies thriving. Daylilies are colorful perennials that brighten any garden.

Do aphids eat daylilies?

Daylilies are colorful perennials that brighten up any garden. They need lots of sunlight and love to care to thrive. Daylilies are easy to take care of once they are planted because they can adapt to their surroundings and grow in the sun. Few insects can hurt daylilies, but aphids on daylilies can destroy an entire garden of them.

How do you know if a daylily has an aphid infestation?

They often grow in colonies on the undersides of daylily leaves. Heavily infested plant leaves will turn yellow from all the sap drained out of them. Daylily aphids are tiny and often very hard to spot unless you know what you’re looking for. Still, there is another way to determine if your daylily garden has an aphid infestation.

Do aphids cause daylilies to turn black?

The insects leave behind this sugary substance and create the perfect breeding ground for sooty mold, a noticeable fungus. Sooty mold turns leaves black and is the first sign most people notice when dealing with an aphid infestation. What Plant Damage Do Aphids Cause Daylilies?.

Why are my daylilies turning yellow?

One of the most harmful to daylilies is little green bugs called aphids. Aphids are soft-bodied insects with a suckermouth that helps them feed on a plant’s sap. They often grow in colonies on the undersides of daylily leaves. Heavily infested plant leaves will turn yellow from all the sap drained out of them.

How do you remove daylilies from a tree?

When on trees or roses or other plants that stand up straight, you can often blast them off with a hose, use a soap based product, or the diatomaceous earth as I used. However with these daylilies they were really down in deep where they couldn’t really be sprayed away or accessed well with any sort of spray.

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