One of the most common vegetables grown in home gardens is the tomato. Bugs called flea beetles can damage these tasty treats, though. The damage that flea beetles do to tomato plants can quickly get out of hand, leaving you with plants that are too short and fruits that don’t taste good.
We will talk about everything you need to know about flea beetles and how to keep them from hurting tomato plants in this big guide.
What are Flea Beetles?
Flea beetles are tiny jumping insects that feed on a wide variety of vegetable plants, especially members of the nightshade family like tomatoes, eggplants, and peppers. There are many different species of flea beetles, but some of the most common ones that affect tomatoes are the potato flea beetle, eggplant flea beetle, and tobacco flea beetle.
Adult flea beetles are only about 1/16 to 1/8 inches long They get their name from their enlarged hind legs that allow them to jump quickly like a flea when disturbed Their small size and jumping abilities make them difficult to spot in the garden,
Flea Beetle Life Cycle
The life cycle of flea beetles takes about 4-6 weeks to complete depending on the species and climate conditions.
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Overwintering—Adult flea beetles spend the winter in safe places like leaf litter or under tree bark.
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Spring Emergence – Adults become active in spring once temperatures warm up, usually around late April or May
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Feeding & Egg Laying – Adults feed on young seedlings and lay tiny white eggs in soil cracks near the base of host plants.
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Larval Stage – Eggs hatch into slender, worm-like larvae in about 1 week. Larvae feed on roots for 2-3 weeks before pupating in the soil.
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Pupal Stage – The pupal stage lasts 1-2 weeks.
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There are new adults coming out of the pupae in the soil, which starts the cycle all over again. There are typically 1-2 generations per year.
Recognizing Flea Beetle Damage on Tomato Plants
Flea beetles damage tomato plants in two ways:
Leaf Damage
Adult flea beetles chew many small holes in leaves, giving them a characteristic “shothole” appearance. The holes can range from tiny pinpricks to larger holes nearly 1⁄8 inch wide. Severe feeding can skeletonize entire leaves.
Leaf damage is most serious on young seedlings. A seedling can be killed when 50% or more of its leaf surface area is removed by flea beetles. Mature plants can generally tolerate more foliage loss.
Fruit Damage
Occasionally flea beetles will feed directly on ripe tomato fruits. This damage is usually minor and appears as small holes or pits in the skin, typically just under the calyx.
Fruit feeding is more common late in the season when beetle populations are high and foliage is declining, forcing them to seek other food sources.
Conditions Favoring Flea Beetles
Certain conditions can lead to more severe flea beetle problems:
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Early Plantings – Young spring seedlings are most vulnerable.
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Previous Crops – Damage is often worse in areas previously planted with tomatoes or other flea beetle host crops.
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Field Margins – Infestations tend to start along field edges and borders.
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Hot & Dry Weather – Feeding increases during hot, dry conditions.
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Weedy Fields – Nearby weeds can harbor overwintering flea beetles.
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Reduced Foliage – Late season fruit feeding coincides with fading foliage.
How to Control Flea Beetles on Tomato Plants
Here are some effective strategies for controlling flea beetle damage in the tomato patch:
Remove Nearby Weeds & Crop Debris
Eliminate potential overwintering sites by clearing weeds and leftover plant debris in and around the garden. Tilling in the fall can disrupt any flea beetles sheltering in the soil.
Use Floating Row Covers
Protect young seedlings with lightweight floating row covers. Use them from transplanting or seeding until plants are established. Seal the edges with soil or clips to prevent beetles from getting underneath.
Apply Beneficial Nematodes
Apply insect-killing nematodes like Steinernema or Heterorhabditis species to the soil around plants. The nematodes prey on flea beetle larvae in the soil.
Install Yellow Sticky Traps
The bright yellow color of sticky traps attracts adult flea beetles. Position traps near plants around 6 inches above the ground. Check and replace traps regularly.
Use Repellent Plants Like Catnip or Basil
Interplanting with strongly scented herbs like catnip, sage, hyssop, basil, or mint can help deter flea beetles.
Apply Protective Covers Like Kaolin Clay
Applying a thin kaolin clay spray to leaves can discourage flea beetles from feeding. It forms a mineral barrier that damages their feet and mouthparts.
Use Diatomaceous Earth (DE)
Sprinkle diatomaceous earth, a powdery natural pesticide, on the ground around plants. The sharp DE particles damage the waxy protective coating on flea beetles.
Spray Neem Oil, Pyrethrin, or Insecticidal Soap
Applying neem oil, pyrethrins, or insecticidal soap directly to plants can kill flea beetles on contact. Target the undersides of leaves for best results.
Apply Systemic Insecticides
As a last resort, systemic insecticides like imidacloprid or thiamethoxam applied to the soil or as a foliar spray can provide extended control of flea beetles. Use sparingly to minimize risks to bees and other beneficial insects.
Preventing Future Outbreaks
Once flea beetle damage occurs, it can be difficult to gain control that same season. The best offense is prevention:
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Avoid planting tomatoes in the same location as last year’s plants. Crop rotation disrupts pest cycles.
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Wait until later in spring to transplant seedlings. This allows the first wave of overwintering flea beetles to die off.
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Keep the garden and surrounding areas weed-free to eliminate alternate flea beetle food sources and habitat.
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Use floating row covers at the start of each growing season before flea beetles become active.
Staying vigilant and implementing multiple control strategies at the first sign of flea beetle leaf damage will help protect your tomato crop from extensive losses. Consistent prevention measures over time will minimize recurring problems with these destructive tomato pests.
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