As a passionate gardener who’s grown rhubarb for over 10 years, I’ve noticed lots of confusion about what happens to rhubarb plants during hot summer months. Let me break down everything you need to know about rhubarb’s summer behavior and how to keep your plants healthy year-round.
The Short Answer
Rhubarb can die back in the summer, especially if it stays above 90°F for a long time. But don’t worry—this is normal! The plant isn’t dying; it’s just going dormant to protect itself from heat stress.
What Really Happens to Rhubarb in Summer
The Natural Cycle
- Spring: Vigorous growth with thick, juicy stalks
- Early Summer: Continued healthy growth in moderate temperatures
- Mid-Late Summer: Potential die-back in hot conditions
- Fall: May produce new growth as temperatures cool
- Winter: Complete dormancy
Signs of Normal Summer Die-Back
- Leaves becoming limp or yellowing
- Thinner stalks than spring growth
- Reduced overall plant size
- Less new growth emerging
Why Does Rhubarb Die Back in Summer?
Temperature Tolerance
Rhubarb is happiest when temperatures are
- Below 75°F: Optimal growth
- 75-90°F: Slowed growth
- Above 90°F: Triggered dormancy
Plant Protection Mechanism
When rhubarb experiences consistent high temperatures, it goes into survival mode by:
- Reducing leaf surface area
- Slowing down growth
- Conserving energy
- Protecting root system
How to Prevent Summer Die-Back
Location Planning
- Plant in areas with morning sun/afternoon shade
- Use buildings or taller plants for natural shade
- Consider north-facing locations
Summer Care Tips
-
Mulching
- Apply 2-3 inches of organic mulch
- Keep mulch away from crown
- Refresh mulch as needed
-
Watering
- Water deeply and consistently
- Morning watering is best
- Keep soil moist but not waterlogged
-
Shade Protection
- Use shade cloth during peak heat
- Create temporary shade structures
- Remove protection when temperatures moderate
Will My Rhubarb Come Back?
Don’t panic if your rhubarb looks pretty sad by August! Here’s what you can expect:
Recovery Timeline
- Temperatures drop below 90°F
- New growth appears within 2-4 weeks
- Full recovery by next spring
Signs of Healthy Dormancy
- Root system remains firm
- Crown stays intact
- No signs of rot or disease
Regional Considerations
Hot Climate Growing
If you’re in a warmer region:
- Choose heat-tolerant varieties
- Provide extra shade
- Consider growing as a winter crop
Cool Climate Growing
Lucky gardeners in cooler areas:
- May not see summer die-back
- Can harvest longer into summer
- Need less intensive care
Common Problems vs. Normal Die-Back
Normal Die-Back Signs
- Gradual decline
- Uniform yellowing
- Responds to cooler weather
Problem Signs to Watch For
- Sudden collapse
- Black or mushy stalks
- Foul odors
- Crown rot
Tips for Success
-
Don’t Overharvest
- Stop harvesting when stalks get thin
- Leave some leaves for energy storage
- Allow plant to rebuild strength
-
Maintain Good Air Flow
- Space plants properly
- Remove dead foliage
- Keep area weed-free
-
Prepare for Next Season
- Add compost in fall
- Clean up dead growth
- Plan for shade if needed
My Personal Experience
I remember panicking the first time my rhubarb died back in summer. I thought I’d killed it! But after learning about rhubarb’s natural cycles, I’ve become much more relaxed. Now I just give my plants extra TLC during hot spells and trust they’ll bounce back when conditions improve.
Final Thoughts
Summer die-back in rhubarb is completely natural and shouldn’t cause alarm. With proper care and understanding of the plant’s needs, your rhubarb patch can thrive for many years. Remember, this tough perennial has been growing in gardens for centuries – it knows what it’s doing!
Quick Care Checklist
- ✓ Monitor temperatures
- ✓ Provide adequate water
- ✓ Use mulch for cooling
- ✓ Add shade when needed
- ✓ Be patient during recovery
Remember these tips, and your rhubarb patch will be healthy and give you tasty stalks every year, even if it needs a little summer rest!
Would you like me to explain any of these points in more detail?
How to Harvest Rhubarb
To harvest individual stalks:
To get the stalks, it’s easiest to pull up from the plant’s base and twist a little as you do it.
Most will come out pretty quickly this way, but if some don’t, you can use a knife to cut a stalk off at the base, you just have to be careful not to cut anything you don’t plan on harvesting – which is why I prefer the pull-and-twist method.
Cut off the leaves and compost them.
When and how much to harvest:
I’ve read various, sometimes conflicting, methods for when and how much to harvest your rhubarb – from only picking 1/3 of the plant during a season to cutting all the stems at once for a one-time harvest, or only spring harvesting to an all-season harvest.
I try to get it in the middle by picking only the fattest stalks for about two months, or until most of the new stalks look really thin. Every once in awhile, some stalks will look good again in the fall and I’ll harvest a few, but my main harvest is in the spring.
Red or Green Stalks?
I didn’t know until we moved into a new house with an established rhubarb patch that not all rhubarb varieties have red stalks. Some produce mostly green stalks with barely a hint of red.
The green stalked rhubarb is closer to the wild rhubarb, with newer varieties having been bred to be redder, like ‘crimson red’ and ‘valentine. ’.
I’ve cooked with both, and while they don’t taste different, the food looks better when I use red stalks. They make the jam pretty (it’s a dull brown color with green stalks) and produce wonderful red pockets in muffins and breads.
Green stalk rhubarb also tends to produce more flower stalks (some of the red varieties will not produce flowers at all), and when the flowers form, the stalks can be a bit dry and stringy.
However, the green stalk variety is hardier and easier to grow than the more popular red colored plants, so if you’re having problems getting rhubarb established, switching your variety may be an option for you.
Rhubarb Troubleshooting – What’s happening with my rhubarb| Lunch Break VLOG #34
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