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How to Grow an Orchid from Seed: A Complete Guide

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It might seem hard to grow an orchid from a seed, but if you’re patient and careful, it can be a fun and rewarding experience. There are thousands of tiny seeds that orchids make, and they need special care to germinate and grow into full plants. This detailed guide gives you all the information you need to grow orchids from seeds at home.

Overview of Growing Orchids from Seeds

Orchid seeds can’t store food, so they need fungi in their natural environment to sprout. There are two main techniques used to germinate orchid seeds:

  • Symbiotic germination involves using mycorrhizal fungi to supply nutrients to the seeds This complex process is primarily done in laboratories,

  • Asymbiotic germination, also known as flasking, is easier for home growers. It uses a sterile, nutrient-rich agar gel to germinate seeds.

Asymbiotic germination allows you to grow orchids from seeds without fungi. However, it requires sterile equipment and conditions to prevent contamination. Viable orchid seeds, distilled water, flasks, agar powder, fertilizer, and other supplies are needed.

Patience is critical, as it can take weeks for seeds to germinate and years for plants to mature and flower. With diligent care though, you can propagate orchids at home from seeds.

Step-by-Step Guide to Growing Orchids from Seeds

Follow these key steps to successfully grow an orchid from seed:

1. Obtain Viable Orchid Seeds

  • Get seed pods that are full and not yet fully grown from reputable growers, or pick your own pods before they open naturally.

  • Sterilize the pods in diluted bleach, then slice open to extract seeds.

  • Clean the tiny seeds in hydrogen peroxide and store in a cool, dry place until ready to sow.

2. Prepare Sterile Work Area and Supplies

  • Designate a clean working area and sanitize all equipment with diluted bleach or alcohol.

  • Assemble sterile flasks, jars, pipettes, tweezers, scalpels, and other supplies needed.

  • Make nutrient-rich agar medium by dissolving agar powder in distilled boiling water.

3. Sow Seeds in Agar and Seal Flasks

  • In sterile conditions, place seeds in flasks filled with prepared liquid agar medium.

  • Gently swirl to disperse seeds evenly and prevent clumping.

  • Seal flasks immediately and label with orchid species and date.

4. Allow Seeds to Germinate

  • Store flasks in bright, indirect light and stable temperatures between 65-75°F.

  • Monitor flasks daily for germination, which may take weeks or months depending on species.

  • Look for initial swelling and greening of embryos signaling germination.

5. Care for Developing Seedlings

  • After germination, move flasks to slightly brighter light to encourage growth.

  • When seedlings outgrow flasks, transplant each into new individual containers.

  • Use sterile techniques when re-flasking developing orchids to prevent disease.

  • Gradually introduce dilute fertilizer in agar once seedlings form leaves and roots.

6. Acclimate and Pot Mature Seedlings

  • Allow seedlings to grow undisturbed for months to years until large enough to deflask.

  • Remove agar and rinse seedlings before transferring to open pots filled with proper media.

  • Acclimate young plants to lower humidity levels gradually.

  • Grow on in warm, bright conditions until reaching maturity and flowering.

Tips for Successfully Growing Orchids from Seeds

  • Maintain sterile conditions when handling seeds and tools to prevent fungal/bacterial issues.

  • Invest in quality orchid seed pods from reputable sources for best viability.

  • Ensure steady temperatures between 65-80°F and adequate air circulation for growth.

  • Provide high humidity, filtered light, and minimal disturbances while seedlings establish.

  • Deflask and repot young orchids with great care to avoid damaging delicate roots and leaves.

  • Have patience, as orchids grown from seeds may take several months to years before flowering.

  • Keep detailed records to document seed pod sources, germination rates, and growth progress.

Common Problems When Growing Orchids from Seeds

  • Contamination – Bacteria, fungi, and algae can ruin unsterilized seeds and growing medium.

  • Poor germination – Old or unviable seeds, improper temperatures, and humidity levels can inhibit germination.

  • Slow growth – Inadequate light, nutrients, or water can result in stunted seedlings.

  • Transplant shock – Deflasking and repotting too early can damage roots and stress seedlings.

  • Disease – Viruses, fungi, and bacteria can infect growing orchids if conditions aren’t sterile.

Frequently Asked Questions

Where can I get orchid seed pods for propagation?

Orchid seed pods are available from reputable online nurseries, local orchid societies, or botanical gardens focused on orchid conservation. Harvesting pods from your own mature orchids is an eco-friendly option.

What type of orchid is easiest to grow from seed?

Phalaenopsis and Paphiopedilum orchids are generally the easiest to propagate from seed at home due to less stringent light, humidity, and temperature requirements.

How long does it take orchids to grow from seeds?

To grow into flowering plants, orchid seeds may need anywhere from a few weeks to several months or even years, depending on the species. Plants that grow quickly may flower in two to three years, while plants that grow slowly may take five years or more.

Can orchid seeds be stored before sowing?

Yes, cleaned and dried orchid seeds can be safely stored in airtight containers in cool, dry places for up to a year before sowing. Storing too long reduces viability over time.

Is sterilization necessary to grow orchids from seeds?

Absolutely! Sterilizing all tools, containers, and media is critical to prevent deadly fungal and bacterial contamination of tiny, vulnerable orchid seeds.

Growing orchids from tiny seeds into mature blooming plants requires dedication and vigilance but comes with immense satisfaction. Follow these steps to propagate your own orchids from seeds successfully.

grow an orchid from seed

Create a Sterile Environment

Bacteria, fungi, and algae are enemies of orchid germination, so you have to sterilize your working space. Place your flasks, beakers, and tweezers in an oven at 180°C (356°F). Leave them inside for at least 10 minutes. Let the flasks cool off before you close the lids.

Select a clean room with an easy-to-clean workbench. Use bleach to clean all surfaces in your designated room. If you can get a glove box, that’s your best bet to create a secure and sterile environment. Though you may not reach lab-level sterility, your goal is to kill all bacterial cells and fungal spores.

Put all your flasks, the eyedropper, tweezers, the ready medium, and seeds inside the glovebox. Include a spray bottle filled with bleach.

If your glove box has a filter and fan, switch them on now. Wear your gloves, then spray everything inside the box with bleach. Wash your gloved hands and forearms with bleach.

Give the bleach a few minutes to work, then get the bottle containing seeds and the eyedropper ready for the next step. Dip the eyedropper into the hydrogen-peroxide mix and get around 3ml (0. 1oz). Drop the liquid into about 100ml (3. 4oz) agar nutrient mix inside a flask. Close the flask immediately after.

Take your Ziploc bags and spray them with bleach inside and out. The bags need to be transparent as the germinating seeds will require sunlight.

Put your flask inside the Ziploc bag. Label the bag with the date and name of the orchid species. When you’re done flasking the orchids, put the bag on a clean surface near a window so they get direct sunlight. Clean your work area, so any loose seeds don’t later mix with your next batch of seeds.

Orchid seed germination starts with the swelling of the embryo. Some types of orchids may form chlorophyll at this point, while others won’t. The embryo keeps swelling until it bursts out of the seed coat. The result is a spherical or cone-shaped emerging seedling. This process is known as the protocorm stage.

On the seed’s upper surface, the first signs of a leaf appear as a small bulge. On the lower side, absorbing hairs appear, and the protocorm becomes wider. Soon after, the first leaves emerge, followed by the first roots.

Some orchids germinate within a few days, while some may take months. Let the flasks remain undisturbed but check progress frequently. Only fertilize your orchids after you have spotted the roots emerging.

If it’s a slow-growing species, the agar may start looking cracked due to water loss. If you notice signs of dehydration, transplant the orchids to new flasks. Use the same sterilization process you used for germinating the orchid seeds. Before opening the old flask, wipe it with a clean paper dipped in bleach or 80% alcohol.

Orchid seedlings take between 4 and 8 weeks before they reach the ideal size for transplantation. Each seedling should be removed from the first flask containing the starting agar and put into a new container filled with maintenance agar.

Requirements for Proper Germination

Orchid seeds are unique in what they need for proper germination and subsequent development. The requirements vary a lot, owing to the great number of orchid varieties and different grower climates. The different agar, nutrients, and fertilizer mixtures also impact the seed’s germination and growth to maturity.

However, despite the many differences, there are many shared requirements. These include:

  • A high degree of sterilization during seed handling and germination
  • Enough light to see in the shade (diffused lighting inside works just as well).
  • There are many holes in the pot and a course filling to let water drain and air flow.
  • A slightly acidic pH for the medium (agar used for seed growth)

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